A Letter From Elsie & Margot: The Cardigan Hours

A Letter From Elsie & Margot: The Cardigan Hours

Nobody plans the thing they end up wearing every day. It just keeps being the easiest answer.

There is a stretch of the day in September that nothing in the wardrobe is built for. The house is cold at seven. The bus is too warm at half eight. By eleven the sun is out, by two it is raining sideways, and by the school run you want your sleeves back. Four seasons before lunchtime is a joke here because it is true.

A jumper commits you. Whatever the day does, you are in it until you get home. A coat is a decision you make at the door and regret in the shop. The cardigan is the only thing in the wardrobe you can argue with. Open, closed, sleeves pushed up, buttoned to the throat on the river walk. That is why it becomes the piece you reach for without thinking, and why it is the one that wears out first.

How it started

We did not set out to carry everything. We set out to carry the things that survive the first three weeks. Most collections are built to photograph well. We started asking a duller question. What actually gets worn?

So we kept one rule. If we would not wear it twice ourselves, it does not make the cut. Not once for the photo. Twice, on an ordinary Tuesday, with the school run and the tea going cold.

Six things we check before a cardigan gets in

1 It has to open properly

Half the cardigans we look at are jumpers with a seam drawn down the front. If it does not sit flat when it is open, it only has one way to be worn, and then it is not a cardigan at all. It has to look deliberate open, over a dress at dinner and over a shirt on a cold morning.

Stefanie is cut long and open enough to wear as a layer over almost anything in the shop.

2 Sleeves that stay where you push them

You will push these sleeves up twenty times a week. A cuff with no structure slides straight back down while you are carrying something, and after a month it hangs loose at the wrist for good. We look for a cuff with some grip to it, because the sleeve test is the one nobody does in the shop and everybody notices at home.

Brighid and Vada both have a ribbed cuff and neckline.

3 Buttons you can find without looking

Small slippery buttons are a design decision made by someone who never had cold hands. Larger buttons with a bit of weight sit in the placket properly, they do not gape across the chest, and you can do them up at a bus stop in the dark.

Stefanie has the large metal buttons this whole collection is named for.

4 A shape that is still there in November

The real test is not the first wear. It is whether the shoulders still sit where they should after it has been hung wet on the back of a chair a few times, because that is what happens to a cardigan in this city.

The pieces that survive our own wearing are the ones we reorder. These five are the ones that came back.

5 Sizes that go past a token large

A size range that stops politely at 14 is not a size range. If a piece only works on two bodies, it is a photograph, not a wardrobe.

Rosalba runs UK 8 to UK 22. Joann starts at UK 10 and goes to UK 18.

6 Colours you would wear twice in a week

A colour you love once a month is a lovely thing and a bad buy. We keep the quiet ones, the ones that work with what you already own, and then one that is only there because it lifts the whole outfit.

Brighid comes in ten colours, Rosalba in seven, Stefanie in five.

The five we would keep

Stefanie Oversized Collared Cardigan

Stefanie · Oversized Collared Cardigan

Navy, light blue, cream, beige, white · UK 8 to UK 16

The one with the collar, which is why it works over a shirt without looking like you gave up. It is the piece most of you have chosen this month, and the one we would start with if you are only keeping one.

£39.95£99.95

See the sizes left

Brighid Soft Sweater

Brighid · Soft Sweater

Ten colours · S to XL

Not a cardigan, and we are keeping it here anyway, because it is the thing the cardigans go over. Nine colours means there is a version of this that matches everything you already wear on a Tuesday.

£29.95£74.95

See the sizes left

Joann Relaxed V-Neck Cardigan

Joann · Relaxed V-Neck Cardigan

Green, charcoal, apricot, blue, grey · UK 10 to UK 18

The softest shape of the five, cut deep enough at the neck to show whatever is underneath. This is the one for the days you are at home and someone still rings the doorbell.

£44.95£124.95

See the sizes left

Rosalba Oversized Draped Wide-Neck Sweater

Rosalba · Oversized Draped Wide-Neck Sweater

Seven colours · UK 8 to UK 22

The dressed-up end of the rail. Wide at the neck, long in the body, and the only one here we would put on for dinner without changing anything else about the outfit.

£64.95£260.00

See the sizes left

Vada Elegant Turtleneck Sweater

Vada · Elegant Turtleneck Sweater

Blue, grey, light brown, apricot, dark green · UK 8 to UK 16

The one that solves the scarf problem. It is also the piece that has gone furthest already. UK 18 has sold through in every colour, so the run left is the one you can see on the page.

£39.95£99.95

See the sizes left

What we check, and what usually happens

What we look for What we keep sending back
Sits flat when it is open A jumper with a zip down the middle
Cuffs that hold a pushed-up sleeve Cuffs that go slack in a month
Buttons with weight, spaced so it does not gape Small buttons you cannot do up in the cold
Shoulders still right after a wet week Shape that leaves with the first wash
A range that reaches UK 20 and 22 A size range that stops at 14
Colours that go with what you own One colour that photographs well

Why the sale, honestly

This is the End of Season Sale, and it is not a clearance of things we could not sell. It is the edit we were proud to carry all season, marked down because the next one needs the space. The timing is the odd part and it works in your favour. The price belongs to the summer that is ending. The wearing belongs to the autumn that is starting.

There are no reorders once a size goes. That is the whole deadline. No clock on the screen, just the calendar and whatever is left on the rail.

If you are taking more than one, the basket does the rest by itself. Two pieces take another 10% off, three take 15%, four or more take 20%. There is no code to remember and nothing to type.

Free UK Delivery 30-day returns Here to help, by email, every day
See which sizes are still there

Or browse the whole collection

To those who are here with us early

We are small, and we know exactly how many of you there are. If something arrives and it is not right, write to us and we will sort it. A shop this size cannot afford to be anything other than straight with you, and we would rather have you back in the spring than win an argument about a jumper.

With quiet confidence,
Elsie & Margot, Oxford